FISH The right pet for you?
Fish are colourful and fascinating to watch, but do not provide companionship like most other pets. Setting up an aquarium or pond can be expensive and time-consuming, but most fish are relatively easy to care for. Before purchasing any pet, you should think very hard about whether you can provide everything it needs.

What do fish need?
Companionship - to be with other fish.

To be fed once a day with the right kind of food. Most fish need specially prepared fish food and some live food, such as water fleas.

If fish are to be kept indoors, they need a large aquarium with a ventilated cover. It should be kept out of direct sunlight and away from extremes of hot and cold. The bottom of the aquarium should be covered with clean gravel.

An aquarium should have a filter to keep the water clean, an aeration pump to regulate the amount of oxygen in the water, and a heater and thermostat to regulate the temperature.

An aquarium needs to be cleaned regularly and the water changed.

If fish are to be kept outdoors, they need a large pond with some overhanging plants or trees to provide shade.

A pond needs to be cleaned out once a year and the water changed. Fallen leaves must be cleared from the surface of the water and plants thinned out as necessary. If the pond freezes, ice should be melted carefully.

A variety of water plants in the pond or aquarium to provide oxygen and cover. Smooth rocks and other objects also provide hiding places.

Plenty of light to encourage water plants to grow.

You should seek help from an expert if your fish appears ill or injured.

Fish need to be looked after when you are away on holiday.

Lifespan
Different fish have different life spans. Goldfish can live for up to 25 years.

Behaviour
Many fish live in groups called shoals in the wild and they need the company of others of their own kind. When choosing fish for an aquarium make sure they can live happily together and are healthy. It is best to choose types that live at different depths in the water - surface, middle and bottom levels - but don't put too many fish in the same area. Fish need sheltering places among rocks and plants.

Handling
Fish are very delicate and sensitive. They should not be caught and moved by hand as this is very distressing for them and they are easily injured. Use a large smooth net to gently lift one fish out of the water. Avoid any sudden changes in temperature or light level.

Breeding
If planning to allow your fish to breed, make sure you have the space and facilities to accommodate the young.

All fish develop from eggs and most lay eggs that are fertilized outside the body. Some tropical fish, however, give birth to young that are tiny versions of the adult. Different fish need different conditions to breed.

Health
If fish are gulping at the surface of the water, they could be suffering from oxygen starvation. You can improve the oxygen supply by changing the water, cleaning out the aquarium or pond, using an air pump and adding plants.

Sudden changes in water temperature can be very dangerous. When moving your fish or changing the water, make sure that the temperature is kept even. Always let tap water stand for at least 24 hours to allow chlorine to evaporate.

White strands or tufts like cotton wool on the body of a fish could indicate a serious fungus disease. This can be treated by adding anti-fungus medication to the water.

If a fish has a trailing brown thread from its body, it may have constipation. A more varied diet is needed, including vegetable bits and some live food.

Fish may suffer from white spot disease, caused by a parasite (a tiny living thing which lives on other creatures). If there are white spots on your fish, you can buy a cure from most pet shops. The whole aquarium will need to be treated.

If you have any concerns about the health of your fish, ask your veterinary surgeon or an expert for advice.

Remember- a pet needs your time and interest for the rest of its life.

 Top^

DOGS The right pet for you?
Dogs make very good friends, and are intelligent, faithful and fun. However, they take up a lot of time and energy, are quite expensive to look after and need plenty of space. A dog is not a good choice of pet for busy households or owners who are out all day. Before getting any pet, you should think very hard about whether you can provide everything it needs.

What do dogs need?
Companionship - to be with other dogs or people and not to be left alone for too long.
A balanced diet.

A constant supply of fresh, clean water to drink.

A bed with their own blanket.

A well-fenced garden to play and exercise in.

To be brushed every day, especially if they have long hair.

Help to clean their teeth. You can brush or rub their teeth regularly with special toothpaste. They also need to have their teeth checked regularly by the vet.

Regular walks and a lead for walking near traffic or farm animals.

Someone to clean up after them with a pooper-scooper.

Never to be left in a car in warm weather, even with the window open.

A collar with an identity tag.

To be properly trained.

To have a microchip put under their skin in case they get lost.

To be neutered.

To be taken to a veterinary surgeon if they are ill.

Injections to prevent serious diseases.

Worming and regular flea treatments.

To be looked after when you are away on holiday.

Life span
This depends on the size of the dog, but is around 12-14 years.

Behaviour
The dog is a pack animal and will be upset if left on its own for long periods of time. Different breeds have different temperaments and abilities but all dogs need the company and attention of their owners. Basic training is important and puppies can be house trained and given informal behavioural training from about eight weeks old. Formal kerb training should not begin until they are about three months old and have been fully vaccinated against diseases.

Handling
Lift a puppy by scooping it up gently with one hand under the chest. Lift a dog by standing sideways to it and taking the weight of the chest and hindquarters in both arms. Dogs may bite when teased or surprised so they need to be treated gently.

Breeding
Thousands of unwanted puppies are born every year, and the RSPCA strongly advises that dogs should be neutered at an early age to stop them producing puppies. Neutering is a straightforward operation that can be arranged with a veterinary surgeon.

Female dogs (bitches) that have not been neutered come into season (a time when they can become pregnant) up to twice a year and may have up to 12 puppies in each litter. Puppies should stay with their mother until they are at least eight weeks old.

Health
Puppies must be vaccinated against certain serious diseases and given regular boosters (further injections) throughout their life. Your veterinary surgeon will be able to advise you on this.

Many dogs suffer from parasites (tiny living things which live on other creatures), such as mites which cause sores in the ears - ear canker. Treatment is available from your veterinary surgeon.

Dogs should be routinely treated against worms, which are parasites living in the gut. Tablets are available from your veterinary surgeon and should be given to dogs regularly throughout their life.

A dog can become overweight if it does not get enough exercise, or if it is given too much food or the wrong sort of food. A good diet is especially important for older dogs. Ask your veterinary surgeon for advice.

A dog will have overgrown claws if it does not exercise regularly on hard surfaces. These can be clipped by a veterinary surgeon.

A poor coat may indicate a lack of regular brushing, but could also result from poor diet, parasites or the fungal disease ringworm. If you suspect that your dog has ringworm, seek veterinary advice straight away.

It is a good idea to take out insurance to cover veterinary fees for your dog.

If you have any concerns about your dog's health, ask your veterinary surgeon for advice.

Remember- a pet needs your time and interest for the rest of its life.

 Top^

RABBITS The right pet for you?
Rabbits are very difficult to look after. They need lots of space for exercise, and large homes that can be expensive to create.
Before getting any pet, you should think very hard about whether you can provide everything it needs.

What do rabbits need?
Companionship - to be with other rabbits or humans.

A mixed diet of grass, rabbit pellets, apples and carrots and dandelions, together with a good quantity of hay.

A constant supply of fresh, clean drinking water in a drip feed bottle with a metal spout.

A large weatherproof home that is kept up off the ground, out of direct sunlight and strong winds. It should be moved to an indoor area or porch in cold weather. Many homes sold in pet shops are simply too small.

A separate covered sleeping area for each animal inside the home.

A clean layer of wood shavings on the floor of their home with plenty of hay or shredded paper for bedding.

Daily exercise in a large, safe grassy area. Rabbits burrow, so make sure that the enclosure is sunk into the ground and is escape-proof and safe from predators.

Their home to be cleaned every day and to have their bedding changed weekly.

A gnawing block to wear down long teeth.

To be brushed every day if they have a long coat.

To be neutered at an early age. Ask your veterinary surgeon for advice.

Injections to prevent certain serious diseases.

To be taken to a veterinary surgeon if they are ill or injured.

To be looked after when you are away on holiday.

Life Span
Rabbits live for up to ten years.

Behaviour
Rabbits have never really become domesticated, and still retain many of their natural behaviour patterns. In many ways, this makes them unsuited to life in captivity. In the wild, rabbits live in large social groups, and it is unkind to keep one rabbit on its own.

Female rabbits from the same litter can be kept together successfully, as can male litter mates if they are neutered (otherwise they may fight). Rabbits and guinea pigs may also live happily together if introduced when very young. The guinea pig must have its own sleeping area which the rabbit cannot get into.

Handling
Approach the rabbit from the front. Gently hold the scruff of its neck with one hand but take the weight in your other arm, which should be around the rabbit's hindquarters. Lift the rabbit towards you and rest it against your body with its head towards your shoulder. Never pick up a rabbit by its ears or by the scruff of its neck. Put a rabbit down slowly, hind legs first, on a non-slip surface.

Breeding
The RSPCA strongly advises that you do not breed from rabbits as it is very difficult to find good homes for the young. The easiest way to ensure that rabbits do not breed is simply to keep males and females apart, although rabbits can be neutered to stop them producing unwanted young. Neutering is a straightforward operation that can be arranged with a veterinary surgeon.

A female rabbit (doe) can have several litters a year, with as many as eight babies in each litter.

Health
Young rabbits should be vaccinated against certain serious diseases and given regular boosters (further injections) throughout their life. Your veterinary surgeon will be able to advise you on this.

Rabbits should be checked regularly for overgrown claws and teeth. Both can be trimmed by a veterinary surgeon if necessary.

Young rabbits may be affected by a highly infectious disease called coccidiosis. Symptoms include a yellow look, diarrhoea, dullness and loss of appetite. Keep the rabbit away from the others and seek veterinary advice straight away.

Long-haired rabbits in particular may suffer from the potentially fatal disease flystrike, caused by flies laying eggs in soiled fur. To help avoid this, make sure the rabbits' home is cleaned every day and their bedding changed regularly. Make sure the rabbit has a good quality high fibre diet. Groom rabbits every day, checking their fur all over for any dirt, especially under the tail.

Rabbits may suffer from parasites (tiny living things that live on other creatures). Treatment is available from your veterinary surgeon.

If a rabbit is sneezing and has a discharge from its nose, it may have snuffles. This is highly infectious and could lead to pneumonia. Keep the rabbit away from the others and seek veterinary advice straight away.

If you have any concerns about your rabbits' health, ask your veterinary surgeon for advice.

Remember - a pet needs your time and interest for the rest of its life

 Top^

BIRDS The right pet for you?

Diet
The diet that you provide for your budgerigars is important, as birds in breeding or showing condition need to be properly fed. The type of diet will depend on the climate in your area, as in hotter weather birds will require less starch and protein to build body fat. If the climate is cold, extra starch will need to be provided through the birds' diet. The best way to decide on the diet for your budgerigars is to approach local breeders or societies and see what they recommend.
In the wild, budgerigars feed on grass seeds, eucalypt leaves, buds and bark and other greens. Budgerigars are vegetarian, and should not be supplied with meat, milk or other animal proteins. The birds' digestive systems are not able to properly digest such food, and these proteins tend to go off quickly.

Feed Mix
The feed mix you provide for your budgerigars should resemble the natural diet of the wild birds, modified to suit the larger framed domestic budgerigar. The feed mix can be bought pre-packed, but for those who prefer to have more control over the diet can mix their own. A basic mix would consist of 40 % canary seed, 20 % French millet, 20 % panicum, and 20 % oats. For colder climates the percentage of oats can be increased to provide more starch in the diet. Cod liver oil or wheatgerm oil can be added to provide more protein.

Greens
Budgerigars enjoy greens in addition to the seed mix provided. Leaves off vegetables are good, and grass is also a good source of food, especially the growing stems or sprouting seeds. The best form of greens that you can supply are branches from trees, as they provide a source of exercise as well as leaves, bark and shoots. Eucalyptus are best, but if these are not available in your area then try other types. (Make sure that the tree you are supplying is not poisonous, as this could have a negative effect on the health of your birds!) The best way to find out what your birds like is by experimenting.

Diet Supplements
Calcium is an important mineral that must be supplied to your birds, especially for development of the young and for nesting hens. It can be supplied in the form of a calcium block, or cuttlefish bone. An alternative is to save egg shells from your kitchen, dry and grind them and supply them as a powder.
Grit is needed for aiding in the birds' digestive process. Grit is used by the bird to grind food in the stomach. Loose sandy soil will suffice, or grit can be bought commercially. Grit can be added to the seed mix or provided in a separate dish.
Vitamins are needed by birds, in particular the B group of vitamins. Vitamin preparations can be purchased from pet suppliers in liquid or soluble forms, or as a powder to mix into the seed.
Water must be kept clean at all times. Although budgerigars can go without water for up to 3 weeks, this is not the best way to raise birds, especially in hot weather. The birds will bathe in the water, and usually manage to get a large number of droppings in the water. The water supply should be out of direct sunlight, as the warmth increases bacteria growth. Water can be supplied in a bowl, but an automatic feeder that only releases a small amount of water at a time can reduce the chance of the water becoming dirty. Raspberry Cordial is added to the water by some breeders, as this seems to kill bacteria and make the birds healthy. A weak solution of raspberry cordial in the water can reduce the chances of your flock becoming sick. Be wary of this technique with show birds in show time, as a raspberry stain down the front of the bird will not be viewed favourably be the judges.

Aviary Construction

Dimensions
The length of your flight should be the main consideration when designing or buying an aviary. There should be at least 2 meters of length for the birds to be able to exercise properly. Greater lengths are preferable as they provide even more exercise room. Width is not as important, and can be dictated by how much room you have available. Practically the width should be larger than the width of a door to allow easy access to the birds. The shape of your aviary will also rely on the shape of the area where you put it. A large aviary is not something that fits inconspicuously into a garden unless it is planned out properly. Aviaries can also be built inside if no outdoor space is available, there are examples of breeders who have their aviaries in the garage or on a balcony due to lack of garden space.

Numbers
The number of birds that you will need to be a successful breeder depends on how many varieties you are going to concentrate on. A good stud will contain about 50 birds for each variety, allowing for main breeding birds, show birds, and birds to modify the main breeding strain. Your aviary should be able to house this many birds for each variety. As a rough guide, a flight of 2.5 meters by 1.5 meters will hold 100 birds in a squeeze. Aviary sizes with the number of birds they can house are given in the aviary designs below. (Still under construction.)

Location
The location of your aviary should be given some consideration. Budgerigars can be noisy, especially in the morning, so neighbours should be kept in mind. Shelter is the main concern, and the position you choose should be protected from high wind and heavy rain, as well as direct sunlight if the climate is warm. Underneath the shade of a tree can be good as this provides some shade in the middle of the day, as well as wind and rain protection. Keep in mind that leaves will have to be cleaned off the roof of the aviary. Another consideration is the need to expand. If you plan to start off small then add onto your aviary as your flock grows, then don't forget to take this into account when positioning your aviary.

Materials
The best material for constructing an aviary is metal. The frames should be metal, as this prevents small insects from hiding in the cracks of the frame. Make sure wire mesh is used on the roof underneath the roofing. Roofing can be smashed by falling braches or blown off in heavy wind and the mesh provides extra protection. Mesh should also be put inside walls that are covered in material that may break, such as fibre-glass sheets.

Roofing
The aviary should be fully covered by the roof. Leaving an area uncovered to let the birds fly in the rain and sun will most likely lead to feed getting wet and other problems. A full roof provides better protection from wild birds and neighbourhood cats. The roof can be made of clear material or metal sheets, or a combination of the two. In my experience, covering the roof with clear sheets and then having metal sheets that can be placed on top off these allows you to control the amount of light and heat in the aviary. The clear sheets are good for winter conditions, then placing a layer of metal sheets over some of the roof in summer blocks out unwanted heat.

Safety Doors
Safety doors are needed to prevent birds from escaping when you enter the flight. When designing your aviary, try to avoid doors leading from outside directly into the flight areas. The breeding room, a storage room or a corridor that opens onto the flights can serve as a safety area, as can a set of double doors. Do not neglect this area when designing an aviary, or you are sure to regret it later.

Perches
Perches should always be constructed from wood. Metal perches will cause problems for the birds' feet and plastic perches can be broken easily and prove harmful if chewed. The perches should vary in diameter to provide exercise. Two approaches can be taken with perch design: 1) a bracket of perches that is easy to repair and install, or 2) using natural tree branches and wiring them together in the flight area. The first method is easier to fix if a perch is broken, while the second method is more natural and interesting for the birds.

Breeding Room
The breeding room should be positioned off the main flights. The room should contain shelf space for placing the breeding cabinets on, so keep the dimensions of breeding cabinets in mind when designing the breeding room. The breeding room will be more efficient if it is no visible from the main flight, as birds in the breeding cabinets will be distracted by the sight of other birds flying about. Light should be plentiful to allow the birds to find the nesting box on an overcast day. Clear roofing is ideal for this, and an additional electric light can be helpful if you feel there is not enough light.

Breeding Cabinets
The breeding cabinets should be able to hold two large budgerigars and allow them to exercise. Perches should not move or roll, and should not be too close to the ceiling or floor or the cabinet. The cabinets should be modular in design so that they can be stacked up or ideally fitted into a frame on the wall that they can be removed from if need be. Food and water containers should be easily accessible.

Nesting Boxes
The nest box can be placed to the side or front of the cabinet. The nest box should have a false bottom that can be removed, and a hollow in the false bottom for the hen to nest in. The hollow should be deep enough to stop eggs from rolling away from the hen.

Medical Equipment
There are several items that should be kept in the breeding room to treat a minor injury or illness.
Dettol is useful for treating some parasites and infections.
Antibiotics for birds can be purchased from a pet supplier, such as Aureomycin and Bioserine.
Sulphur based drug preparation.
Eye Ointment is needed for eye infections.
Mercurochrome for cuts.
A Heated Cage is necessary for isolating and helping sick birds recover. The cage is usually of wood construction, with a glass front. Heat is provided from a light bulb below the floor, and a thermometer is placed inside the cage so the temperature can be monitored and kept at a constant around 37 degrees Centigrade. Ventilation should be controllable so the bird does not die of heat exhaustion rather than the illness you are trying to treat. Fresh air should enter the cage, but not enough to cause a large draft. Consult a local breeder about the construction of a heated cage, as it is an important piece of equipment.
A temporary measure can be provided by covering a small holding cage or cabinet and keeping it inside at room temperature.

Remember - a pet needs your time and interest for the rest of its life

 Top^

What do cats need?

Companionship - to be with other cats or people for at least part of the day.

A balanced diet of appropriate foods every day.

Make sure that there are no bones in your cat's food.

A constant supply of fresh, clean water to drink.

A garden or safe place to play and exercise every day, away from busy roads.

Somewhere warm and cosy to sleep.

To be brushed regularly, particularly when shedding their coats. Long-haired cats need to be brushed every day.

A scratching post (which may stop them damaging the furniture).

Help to clean their teeth. You can brush or rub their teeth regularly with special toothpaste. They also need to have their teeth checked regularly by the vet.

To be able to go in and out when they want - a cat flap is ideal.

To be trained to use a litter tray.

To have a microchip inserted under their skin in case they get lost.

To be neutered at an early age.

To be taken to a veterinary surgeon if they are ill or injured.

Injections to prevent certain serious diseases.

Worming and regular flea treatments.

To be looked after when you are away on holiday.

Life span
On average cats live for 12-14 years, but they can live for up to 20 years.

Behaviour
Cats like to be alone and will look for companionship when they want it. They spend a lot of time resting but must have access to a garden where they can play and climb. Cats should be house-trained and will usually respond to some very basic behavioural training.

Handling
Place one hand beneath the cat's chest and the other round its back legs, so that all its weight is supported. Never pick up an adult cat by the scruff of its neck or by the front of its body.

Breeding
Hundreds of thousands of unwanted kittens are born every year, and the RSPCA strongly advises that cats should be neutered at an early age to stop them producing kittens. Neutering is a straightforward operation that can be arranged with a vet.

Female cats that have not been neutered come into season (a time when they can become pregnant) about three or four times a year and have up to six kittens in each litter. Kittens should stay with their mother until they are at least eight weeks old.

Health
Kittens must be vaccinated against cat flu and feline enteritis and given regular boosters (further injections) throughout their life. Your veterinary surgeon will be able to advise you on any other necessary vaccinations.

Cats may suffer from parasites (tiny living things that live on other creatures). These will show up as breaks in the cat's skin or discharge in the ear. Treatment is available from your veterinary surgeon.

If your cat has bad breath and difficulty in eating, it may need to have its teeth scraped by a veterinary surgeon.

Cats often eat grass to make themselves sick, if they have a minor digestive disorder or if they need to bring up a hair ball. This is nothing to worry about, unless the vomiting is persistent or the cat shows any other symptoms.

The fungal disease ringworm can be passed to other cats and to people, but the characteristic breaks in the cat's skin cannot always be seen. If you suspect that your cat has ringworm, seek veterinary advice straight away.

Many cats are affected by worms, which are parasites living in the gut. Tablets are available from your veterinary surgeon to cure this problem.

It is a good idea to take out insurance to cover veterinary fees for your cat.

If you have any concerns about your cat's health, ask your veterinary surgeon for advice.

Cats and birds
Although many cats kill large numbers of birds there is no scientific evidence that this is the cause of the decline in some species. Most species that have undergone the most serious population declines in the UK rarely encounter cats - so they cannot be held responsible. Research shows they are usually caused by habitat loss or change.

However, apart from any suffering to the birds involved, the killing of birds by cats does cause a great deal of distress to many people and create a good deal of ill-feeling against cats. Try considering ways in which such effects could be reduced. For example, studies have shown that fitting a bell to a cat's collar may significantly reduce the number of birds it catches. This shouldn't cause any problems for the cat providing the collar is correctly fitted and has a quick release mechanism to allow the cat to free itself should it become entangled. Keeping the cat in at certain times may also reduce the risk to birds. For example, not letting the cat out until at least an hour after sunrise and bringing it in an hour before sunset can help reduce the risk to birds and other animals. The cat may also be at less risk from death or injury in road accidents.

Remember - a pet needs your time and interest for the rest of its life

 Top^

MICE The right pet for you?

Mice are lively and easily tamed, but tend to be active at night and may smell. Rats are intelligent and interesting to look at, but need a lot of space and regular attention. Before getting any pet, you should think very hard about whether you can provide everything it needs.

What do rats and mice need?
Companionship - to be with other rats or mice and to have human company.
A balanced diet of mixed grains and washed fruit and vegetables. Rats can also have seeds, nuts and small pieces of cooked meat. Both rats and mice should have a salt or mineral lick to keep them healthy.

A constant supply of fresh, clean drinking water in a drip feed bottle with a metal spout.

A large home that is kept indoors in a warm place, out of direct sunlight.

Rats need a lot of floor space, ideally on more than one level.

Mice should have a solid exercise wheel (with no open rungs) fixed to the wall of their home.

A nest box inside their home and plenty of hiding places.

A clean layer of wood shavings on the floor of their home with soft hay and kitchen paper for bedding. Do not use newspaper or cotton wool.

Toys to play with, like cardboard tubes and ladders.

Their home to be tidied every day and thoroughly cleaned every week.

A hardwood gnawing block to wear down long teeth.

To be taken to a veterinary surgeon if they are ill or injured.

To be looked after when you are away on holiday.

Lifespan
Rats and mice usually live for two to three years.

Behaviour
Mice need to be with other mice and rats with other rats. Male mice are likely to fight each other, unless they are litter mates, so it is better to keep female mice in groups. However, they can be territorial, so introduce new mice into a neutral area first. Rats like the company of humans, but are clever enough to escape if they have a chance.

Handling
To pick up a rat, place one hand round its shoulders and support its hindquarters in your other hand. It is a good idea to handle rats fairly regularly to keep them tame. To pick up a mouse, lift it up by the base of the tail while supporting its body with your other hand. Hold it on your hand and keep it close to the ground or over a flat surface. Both rats and mice may bite if frightened.

Breeding
The K9-Catfish strongly advises that you do not breed from rats or mice as it is very difficult to find good homes for their young. The best way to ensure that they do not breed is simply to keep males and females apart.

Both rats and mice breed very easily. A female rat could have a litter of up to 11 young every four to five weeks, while a female mouse can have as many as 14 in a litter.

Health
If a mouse develops skin sores, bathe them with a mild antiseptic. If they persist, seek veterinary advice. Loss of fur and sore skin could also indicate parasites (tiny living things which live on other creatures) or the fungal disease ringworm.

Symptoms of respiratory disease in both rats and mice include a loss of appetite, a nasal discharge and uneven breathing. Keep the animal warm and seek veterinary advice straight away.

Both rats and mice can suffer from overgrown teeth if they do not have enough wood, hard pellets or raw vegetables to gnaw on. Your veterinary surgeon may have to cut them back.

If a rat holds its head on one side and walks in circles, it may have middle ear disease. Seek veterinary advice straight away.

Paralysis in mice can be caused by injury or a virus, and you should seek veterinary advice straight away.

A rat that has a sore nose and is sneezing could be allergic to the materials in its home. Use only good quality hay and wood shavings rather than sawdust.

Rats, especially older ones, often develop lumps and tumours. If you notice any unusual growths, seek veterinary advice straight away.

If you have any concerns about the health of your rats or mice, ask your veterinary surgeon for advice.

Remember - a pet needs your time and interest for the rest of its life

 Top^

Hermit Crabs The right pet for you ?
Making a good home for your crab is key to a long life and happiness. When making a home, you should try to recreate their tropical paradise as much as possible. They will thrive in their home if their needs are met. The first place to start when making a "hermit haven" is choosing what kind of cage to use. There are 3 basic kinds of cages suitable for crabs: A fish aqaurium, a plastic cage, or a wire mesh cage. When choosing cages, the saying, "The bigger the better", applies perfectly. Hermit crabs like lots of room to move, so a big cage is nice, and a big cage is neccesary when you have sevral crabs. The different cages also have their advantages. An aqaurium supplies lots of room for up to 6 crabs (in a 10 gallon aquarium), and various toys. The plastic ones are portable, and come in various sizes. The lid is nice for keeping humidity in but still letting air flow through. The wire mesh cage is the best exercise wise, but it is not recommended as a permanent home, because you can't put rocks or sand on the bottom, which would make the molting process more difficult. No matter what cage you buy, a lid is absolutely necessary, since crabs are master escape artists.

After you have chosen your cage, its time to start filling it. The bottom should be covered with 2-3 inches of sand or gravel. You should buy special crab gravel when choosing gravel. Crab gravel is specially formulated with dolomite, a chemical that combats odors. You should NEVER buy fish tank gravel for your crab, because after a couple of days of the gravel getting full of rotting food and poop, it makes your whole house smell like a just-used-bathroom. So dolomite gravel is the way to go. Sand is also an OK choice. Before putting the sand in the cage-you should boil it for 10 minutes to make sure it's clean. (With sand from a clean beach, this shouldn't be necessary since this is the crab's natural environment.) Then let it dry before putting it in the cage. Wire mesh cages don't require a bottom cover like other cages-which is why it does not make a good permanent home. Crabs need to borrow when molting. The only thing you should NEVER put in your crabs cage are wood chips commonly found in hamster cages. Wood chips dry out the crab, resulting in death. A crab's cage should always be kept moist. This should be done by keeping a shallow water bowl in the cage, and a wet sponge. The best water bowls are half a clam shell, because not only do they look nice, but the calcium in the shell mixes with the water, providing nutrients for the crab. The shell should be pressed level with the bottom cover in the cage so the crab can wade in and out of it. The sponge is another way to provide humidity for the cage, and is a considered it a must. The crab can crawl on the sponge and stay moist. Sea sponges can be bought where they sell crabs. Along with a water dish, a food dish should also be put in the cage-again, a half clam shell works well. To avoid fat, lazy crabs, you must put some sort of exercise "equipment" in the crab's cage. If you have a wire-mesh cage, then this is taken care of. But otherwise you will need something like a piece of choya wood, a rock, or coral. Choya wood is the cheapest and most recommended. It is the dried up skeleton of a cactus (with no sharp needles).

FOOD
Crabs are like people in many ways. Especially in how they will pretty much eat anything you put in front of them. Their food pyramid is about the same as ours. Their favorite treats are peanut butter and peeled grapes. You should feed your crab a commercial diet, like fortified crab pellets. But you should also include these foods as treats:
Bread Group: crackers, bread bits, cooked rice, peices of dry cereal, popped popcorn, cooked pasta, and dry oatmeal.
Fruit Group: grapes, (peeled), pears, apples, coconut, oranges, bananas, ect. (all cut very small)
Vegetable Group: lettuce, cooked beans, broccli, spinach
Meat group: cooked bacon, peanut butter, fish, cooked hamburger meat, ect. (crabs enjoy these but they should be fed sparingly)
The important thing to remember is hermit crabs eat very little, and uneaton food in the cage starts to rot and smell. Thats why fresh food should be provided every day. Water should be put in half a clam shell.

 Top^